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Empty beds after daffodils and tulips?

Person planting flower bulbs in soil near blooming daffodils in a raised garden bed outdoors.
In this article
  1. Why March determines the early-summer flowering gap
  2. Dahlias: a burst of colour for beds and large containers
  3. Begonias: the answer for shaded balconies and dark corners
  4. Lilies: tall, scented pillars for the summer border
  5. Peonies: plant now, be amazed in a few years
  6. How these four plants close the flowering gap together
  7. Practical tips for a stress-free March garden
  8. Risks, common mistakes and how to avoid them

Empty beds after daffodils and tulips?

They do not have to be. Plant thoughtfully now and you can ensure an unbroken carpet of flowers right through to autumn.

Many amateur gardeners enjoy daffodils, tulips and crocuses in spring, only to find themselves looking at a garden without colour soon afterwards. For weeks, apparently nothing happens before roses, perennials and summer flowers finally begin to bloom. Choosing four bulbous and tuberous plants with care can greatly shorten this “flowering gap” in 2026 and beyond.

Why March determines the early-summer flowering gap

In many areas, March signals the beginning of the summer-flowering season. The ground starts to thaw, daylight hours noticeably increase and severe frosts become far less common. Planting at this point does not delay flowering; it brings it forward by a considerable margin.

Summer-flowering bulbs and tubers need time to establish roots and produce leaf growth. If they are not planted until late April or May, this vital development period is lost. As a result, the first flowers frequently do not appear until July. Until then, beds remain empty or at least look disappointingly sparse.

“Planting in March bridges the gap between spring-flowering plants and perennials, preventing a flowering break of several weeks in the garden.”

A particularly effective approach is to combine four plants that complement one another in flowering period, height and site requirements: dahlia, begonia, lily and peony. Together, they cover sunny, partially shaded and shaded spaces, while adding structure to beds, containers and window boxes.

Dahlias: a burst of colour for beds and large containers

Dahlias rank among the most popular summer-flowering plants. Their tubers look more like potatoes than conventional flower bulbs, but they are handled in much the same way. Starting them indoors in March gives you several valuable extra weeks.

How to start dahlias properly in March

  • Starting time: early to mid-March, frost-free
  • Position: plenty of sun or light partial shade
  • Container: large pots or boxes filled with loose, humus-rich compost
  • Placement: bright but protected from overnight frost, such as an unheated greenhouse, conservatory or bright cellar with a window

Set the tubers shallowly in the compost, with the small “eye”, from which the new shoot emerges, facing upwards. Water lightly at first, then keep the compost only slightly moist to prevent the tubers from rotting. Once the shoots are 10 to 15 centimetres tall and overnight frosts have ended, move the plants into beds or larger containers.

Early planting rewards you with dahlia flowers from June through to October. Whether you choose pompon, cactus or single-flowered varieties, the colour range runs from pure white and pastel shades to almost black deep red. This makes them equally suitable for romantic cottage gardens and modern minimalist designs.

Begonias: the answer for shaded balconies and dark corners

Not every garden benefits from sunshine all day long. North-facing balconies, shaded entrance areas and courtyards can be challenging for many plants. This is precisely where begonias excel. They cope with little direct sunlight and flower almost continuously.

Growing begonia tubers successfully

Begonia tubers have one gently rounded side and one hollowed side. The hollow must face upwards, as this is where the shoots develop. In March, place the tubers shallowly in trays or pots of loose, lightly moist compost.

  • choose a bright spot away from direct midday sun
  • temperatures of between 15 and 20°C are ideal
  • keep the growing medium evenly moist, without waterlogging
  • cover the tubers with soil only halfway until strong shoots have formed

Once the late-May frost risk has passed, the plants can be moved into window boxes, hanging baskets or shaded beds. Regular watering and occasional liquid feeds will keep them flowering for months. Before the first frost, bring the tubers indoors again, where they can be dried and stored in a cool place over winter.

“With begonias started in March, even the deepest shade no longer looks dreary, instead becoming a permanently flowering window of colour.”

Lilies: tall, scented pillars for the summer border

Lilies offer something that many summer flowers lack: height and fragrance. Their sturdy stems rise above lower planting and give borders a clear structure. At the same time, their large, sometimes strongly scented blooms create a distinct focal point in the garden.

Planting lily bulbs correctly

March is the ideal time, as soon as the soil can be worked. Lily bulbs do not tolerate persistently wet ground, where they quickly rot. Free-draining soil is essential.

  • Planting depth: two to three times the height of the bulb
  • Spacing: 20 to 40 centimetres, depending on the variety
  • Position: sunny to partially shaded
  • Lower soil layer: in heavy soil, incorporate a layer of sand or fine gravel

Some lily varieties begin the season as early as May or June, while others start in high summer. By combining varieties carefully, you can create a succession of flowers lasting several weeks. Their tall stems also make excellent cut flowers, bringing their scent indoors.

Peonies: plant now, be amazed in a few years

Peonies, botanically known as Paeonia, are in a somewhat different category. These perennials stay in the same position for many years, becoming increasingly lush over time and almost resembling small shrubs. Planting in March is an investment in future gardening seasons.

Patience pays off with peonies

Peonies dislike being moved repeatedly, so selecting the right position from the outset is crucial:

  • at least half a day of sunshine
  • deep, humus-rich soil
  • no waterlogging, but consistent moisture
  • enough distance from trees and shrubs with vigorous root systems

Newly planted specimens often need two to three years before they flower abundantly. During this period, they build a strong root system. Once properly established, they produce spectacular, frequently fragrant balls of flowers for many years - a highlight of every early summer.

“Anyone who plants a peony in March brings the reward forward - not this year, but in the years ahead.”

How these four plants close the flowering gap together

Using dahlias, begonias, lilies and peonies strategically creates a sequence that fills the garden from late spring until autumn. One possible arrangement is as follows:

Plant Planting time First flowering Typical position
Peony March from the 2nd–3rd year, May/June sunny bed
Lily March May to August, depending on variety sunny to partially shaded
Dahlia March, started indoors; planted out in May June to October sunny bed, large container
Begonia March, started indoors; planted out in May June to October partial shade, shade, balcony

This produces a kind of flowering relay: established peonies and early lilies take centre stage first, followed by dahlias and begonias, which move into the foreground and maintain the display until autumn.

Practical tips for a stress-free March garden

A brief plan helps to prevent the planting session becoming chaotic. Making a rough sketch of your beds makes it easier to see where tall plants, such as lilies and dahlias, should go and where lower begonias can fit.

  • Use labels: mark every tuber and bulb, otherwise you will be left guessing later.
  • Prepare the soil: loosen compacted areas with a garden fork and work in organic fertiliser or compost.
  • Watch the weather: if late frosts are forecast, protect vulnerable pots with horticultural fleece or cardboard.
  • Find the right watering routine: water less often but thoroughly, rather than applying small amounts constantly.

If space is limited, this approach can also be recreated in pots. A group of large containers containing dahlias, begonias and a potted lily against the house wall delivers almost the same effect as a border, but with greater flexibility.

Risks, common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most frequent issues result from soil that is too wet or from putting pots outdoors too early. Tubers and bulbs quickly rot in heavy, permanently damp ground. Sand, grit or specialist bulb compost can help prevent this. During cold spells in April, pre-started dahlias and begonias in outdoor pots can suffer, so they should be moved temporarily into the house or garage.

Another common mistake is planting at the wrong depth. Lilies and dahlias planted too deeply struggle to get going, while bulbs placed too close to the surface dry out or are taken by birds and mice. The simple rule of “two to three times the height of the bulb” works well for most types.

Following these points delivers long-term benefits: from early summer onwards, the garden looks strikingly lively, window boxes no longer hang in the air looking sadly green for weeks, and there is less need to reach for expensive ready-planted displays from the garden centre at short notice. March therefore becomes the key month for laying the foundations for a summer filled with flowers.

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Gareth Whitcombe

Gareth Whitcombe is a qualified arborist with over 15 years’ experience in tree surgery, woodland management and domestic tree care across the UK. He specialises in safe pruning, tree removal, stump grinding and diagnosing tree health issues, and is passionate about helping clients maintain healthy, attractive outdoor spaces through Woody’s Tree Services.

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