Tomatoes: the best location for a bigger harvest

If you want to harvest your own flavoursome tomatoes in summer, you need to start earlier than many people realise - not at the supermarket, but by planning the growing position. Sunlight, soil, wind and temperature determine whether plants thrive or start suffering as early as June. A few straightforward rules can increase the harvest considerably.

When tomatoes can go outdoors

Tomatoes love warmth and dislike cold. That combination makes timing important. Young plants cannot cope with chilly nights, frost can be fatal, and they grow very little when soil temperatures are too low.

• Night-time temperatures consistently above 8–10°C
• Soil temperature of at least 12–15°C
• No prolonged rain or stormy weather immediately after planting

In many areas, this window falls between mid-May and early June. Sheltered, lower-lying locations may be ready slightly sooner, while higher ground and cooler regions will usually need more time. If you are unsure, monitor the night-time temperatures for several days. A simple soil-thermometer method is to insert the thermometer 10 centimetres into the ground and check it in the morning - only plant once the reading is suitable.

“Warm soil is almost more important to tomatoes than warm air. In cold ground, they remain at a standstill for days.”

The best spot for tomatoes: sun, warmth and air

Tomatoes are keen sun-lovers. Without enough light, plants stay weak, produce few flowers and set significantly fewer fruits.

How much sun tomatoes really need

A minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunshine each day is ideal. Brief periods of shade from trees or buildings are not a problem, but permanent partial shade results in poor yields.

Especially suitable locations include:

• a position in front of a south- or south-west-facing wall
• gardens where tall hedges do not block the midday sun
• places that dry quickly in the morning

Walls absorb warmth during the day and release it again overnight. This creates a slightly milder microclimate that tomatoes enjoy. However, the area should not function as a wind tunnel - draughts stress the plants and dry them out unnecessarily.

What tomato soil needs to be like

Tomatoes develop deep roots and require loose, well-aerated soil. Compacted, heavy ground slows growth, allows water to collect more easily and makes roots more likely to rot.

The ideal soil is:

• loose and crumbly to a depth of around 40 centimetres
• rich in humus and nutrients
• able to retain water well without becoming waterlogged

Before planting, it is worthwhile working the soil thoroughly with compost. A layer of organic mulch - such as chipped prunings, straw or grass clippings - retains moisture in the ground and prevents excessive heating.

Spacing and good companions

Planting tomatoes too closely may save space, but it also increases the risk of disease and weak growth. Giving each plant some air around it acts as natural protection against fungal problems.

Recommended spacing is:

• 45–60 centimetres between individual plants
• 70–80 centimetres between rows

Herbs such as basil and parsley are considered good companions. They fill bare areas, cover the soil and add extra flavour to the garden. At the same time, they leave enough room for tomato roots.

Balcony and patio: creating a small tomato garden

Not having a garden does not mean giving up home-grown tomatoes. A sunny balcony can produce surprisingly good harvests if a few basic principles are followed.

Balcony position: aspect matters

A south-facing balcony is the most rewarding option, as it can easily provide six to eight hours of sunshine. The plants will feel almost as though they are in a bed, just in containers. West- and east-facing balconies receive less light, but can still work well with smaller varieties such as cocktail or cherry tomatoes.

A north-facing position remains difficult. Light levels are generally too low, plants become leggy and flowering is weak. Anyone trying it regardless should begin with small, robust varieties and keep expectations realistic.

Suitable containers and the best way to prevent heat stress

Potted tomatoes need enough space for their roots. Containers that are too small dry out extremely fast in sunshine, leaving plants under constant stress.

• At least 30 centimetres deep for each pot
• Drainage holes so excess water can escape
• High-quality, humus-rich compost rather than cheap multi-purpose compost

A mulch layer works wonders on a balcony too. It reduces evaporation, protects soil life and keeps the surface damp for longer. During heatwaves, moving pots a short distance away from the wall can help prevent plants from effectively being “grilled” by trapped heat.

“Tomatoes in containers dry out faster than those in the ground - water less often but thoroughly, rather than constantly giving them a light sprinkle.”

Wind protection matters as well. A partially open privacy screen or a balcony railing planted with greenery softens gusts without sealing off air circulation completely. Still air and leaves that stay wet for long periods encourage fungal diseases.

How to plant tomatoes properly in the ground

Once the location is chosen and temperatures are right, it is time to plant. A few simple steps at this stage can set the course for a long harvesting season.

• Dig a planting hole twice as large as the root ball.
• Mix in a little compost or well-rotted organic fertiliser.
• Plant the tomato deeper, burying the stem almost up to the first leaves.
• Push a sturdy cane or spiral support into the soil straight away.
• Water generously so that the soil settles closely around the roots.
• Apply mulch once the soil has dried slightly.

Burying more of the stem is not a mistake; it is beneficial. Tomatoes form extra roots along the buried sections, making them stronger and more firmly anchored in the soil.

Common location mistakes that reduce the tomato harvest

Many difficulties during the tomato-growing year can be traced directly to an unsuitable location. Several familiar pitfalls appear repeatedly:

• Positioning tomatoes close to a water butt or beneath gutters, where water continually drips onto the leaves.
• Fully enclosed plastic covers without ventilation, where moisture builds up and fungi thrive.
• Corners that are too shady for plants to dry properly.
• Exposed locations where leaves constantly flap about and break.

Blight is particularly feared: this fungal disease takes advantage of damp conditions. Choosing a position where rainwater drains away quickly and foliage dries soon after a shower noticeably reduces the risk.

Why the garden microclimate matters so much for tomatoes

Conditions can vary greatly within one garden. Behind the garage it may be calmer, against the house wall it may be warmer, and beside a pond it may be more humid. Anyone who understands these differences can place tomatoes deliberately in their preferred area.

A simple test is to walk around the garden on a cool spring morning and feel the air and soil by hand in different spots. Places that feel noticeably milder and where the ground is less clammy are usually highly suitable for warmth-loving crops.

Practical additions for a longer tomato season

Using an overhanging roof, a simple tomato shelter or a small structure that is open at the sides can extend the tomato season considerably at both ends. Plants are protected from prolonged rain, still receive enough air and cool down less at night.

Combining tomatoes with other crops is also worthwhile. Early in the year, lettuces or radishes can grow in the same bed. Once these have been harvested, the tomatoes take over. This keeps the soil from lying bare in spring, while the space contributes to the harvest throughout the year.

Ultimately, it is the combination of many small details that matters: the right timing, the warmest corner, a hand’s breadth of space between plants and sensible wind protection. Anyone who takes the time once to find the ideal place in the garden or on the balcony will benefit year after year from fuller bowls and more intense flavour.